COSMETIC R&D
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COSMETIC R&D
MORE INFORMATIONDEVELOPMENT OF COSMETIC INGREDIENTS, FORMULATIONS AND PRODUCTS
Cosmetic innovation requires turning an idea, a market need or a scientific finding into a solution that is technically viable, stable and ready to move towards commercialisation. At AITEX, we carry out cosmetic R&D projects focused on research into biotechnological ingredients, the development of tailor-made cosmetic formulations, the optimisation of existing products and process scale-up from the laboratory to a pre-industrial environment.
We support companies throughout the different stages of development: literature research, trend analysis, ingredient selection, formula creation and optimisation, stability, safety and efficacy assessment, regulatory advice and pilot plant scale-up. The aim is to reduce technical uncertainty, accelerate innovation and enable each development to evolve from the initial concept into a scalable cosmetic solution.
WHAT IS COSMETIC R&D?
Cosmetic R&D comprises the research and development activities aimed at creating new ingredients, formulations, technologies and processes for cosmetic products. It also makes it possible to improve existing products and adapt formulations to new demands in terms of sustainability, efficacy, sensory properties or market positioning.
Unlike an individual test, a cosmetic R&D project can integrate different stages and technical capabilities. It may begin with the valorisation of a raw material or an active ingredient and continue with its stabilisation, incorporation into a formula, technical assessment and pilot plant scale-up.
WHY INVEST IN R&D IN THE COSMETICS SECTOR?
Launching a new cosmetic product involves making decisions on ingredients, functionality, stability, safety, efficacy, manufacturing, regulation and positioning.
R&D makes it possible to assess technical feasibility from the earliest stages, compare alternatives and select technologies for each development. It also helps to anticipate problems relating to ingredient stability, compatibility within the formulation or product behaviour when manufacturing is scaled up.
AITEX offers a comprehensive view of the process, connecting scientific research with cosmetic application and the future manufacture of the product.
R&D APPLIED TO COSMETIC PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
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Development of innovative cosmetic ingredients and actives
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Bespoke and confidential cosmetic formulation
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Scale-up from the laboratory to the pilot plant
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Integration of sustainable and biotechnological technologies
Development and stabilisation of biotechnological ingredients
AITEX offers the cosmetics industry a comprehensive R&D approach to obtaining innovative ingredients from different sources, including agro-industrial, marine and microbiological matrices.
BIOTECHNOLOGICAL INGREDIENTS
We combine advanced extraction technologies, such as supercritical COâ, enzymatic processes and natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES), with biotransformation strategies such as fermentation. These technologies make it possible to research the production of high added-value bioactive ingredients and to work on improving their functionality.
Stabilisation is a decisive stage in preserving the characteristics of the ingredient and facilitating its incorporation into a cosmetic formulation. We therefore study and optimise different processes, selecting the most suitable technology according to the nature of the ingredient, the intended application and the company’s objectives.
Drying, encapsulation, freeze-drying, fermentation, supercritical COâ extraction, enzymatic processes and extraction using NADES green solvents.
WHAT DOES THIS PROCESS OFFER?
Valorisation of raw materials and by-products
Development of distinctive cosmetic ingredients.
Improved stability of bioactive compounds
Adaptation of the ingredient to its end application
Integration of biotechnological and sustainable processes
Development of tailored solutions for the cosmetics market
Development and optimisation of tailor-made cosmetic formulations
AITEX offers a comprehensive service for the development of tailor-made cosmetic formulations, structured in different stages to adapt each product to the company’s technical, functional and commercial objectives. Throughout the development process, the technical team supports the client on a personalised and confidential basis. The coordinated involvement of specialists in chemistry, biology, pharmacy, biotechnology and dermatology makes it possible to integrate innovation, functionality and technical feasibility into every product.
AITEX offers a comprehensive service for the development of tailor-made cosmetic formulations, structured in different stages to adapt each product to the company’s technical, functional and commercial objectives. We can work both on creating a new formula and on optimising or reformulating an existing product.
Throughout the development process, the technical team supports the client on a personalised and confidential basis, adapting to their specific needs at each stage of the project. The coordinated involvement of specialists in chemistry, biology, pharmacy, biotechnology and dermatology makes it possible to integrate innovation, functionality and technical feasibility into every product, ensuring robust results aligned with market expectations.
HOW IS A COSMETIC PRODUCT CREATED FROM SCRATCH?
Pilot plant scale-up of cosmetic formulations
PILOT PLANT SCALE-UP
A formulation developed in the laboratory must retain its characteristics when transferred to larger volumes. Scale-up makes it possible to study this change of scale, adjust the process and verify technical feasibility before moving on to industrial manufacturing.
AITEX has its own pilot plant for transferring formulations from laboratory scale to a pre-industrial environment. It can simulate real manufacturing conditions, adjust critical variables and produce representative prototypes.
WHAT IS STUDIED DURING SCALE-UP?
During scale-up, we study the temperature of the different phases, stirring speed and time, the emulsification process, the order in which ingredients are added, manufacturing times, formulation behaviour, process reproducibility, and product filling and packaging.
The pilot plant is equipped with a 50-litre reactor with an emulsification system, a 50-litre ATEX-certified melter, a single-tank CIP system for cleaning procedures and a semi-automatic filling machine.
This approach helps to anticipate potential difficulties, optimise process parameters and ensure a more reliable transfer from the laboratory to manufacturing.
Cosmetic research in a clinical setting
Once the formulation has been developed, its safety, tolerance and efficacy can be studied using methodologies tailored to the type of product and the objectives of the project.
AITEX connects its formulation capabilities with clinical and dermatological assessment to obtain information on product performance and provide technical support for its development.
Areas of assessment
âąSkin compatibility and tolerance.
âąProduct safety.
âąCosmetic efficacy.
âąConsumer perception of use.
âąTechnical support for cosmetic claims.
âąStudies tailored to the application and target population.
Regulatory consultancy for cosmetic products
The development of a cosmetic product must take into account the requirements for placing it on the market from the outset. Integrating a regulatory perspective during the R&D stage helps to guide ingredient selection, documentation and labelling.
The development of a cosmetic product must take into account the requirements for placing it on the market from the outset. Integrating a regulatory perspective during the R&D stage helps to guide ingredient selection, documentation and labelling.
AITEX provides support with:Â
âąPreparation of the cosmetic Product Information File (PIF).
âąProduct notification on the CPNP.
âąLabelling review in accordance with different regulations.
âąLegislative advice for placing products on the market within and outside the European Union.
âąIndustry trend studies
âąConsumer opinion studies
Cosmetics research lines
AITEX’s research lines focus on developing new technologies, ingredients and formulations that respond to the current challenges facing the cosmetics industry.
Cosmetic processes and sustainable extraction of actives
This research line covers the development of cosmetics using cold emulsion processes, research into solid cosmetics and the integration of upcycled and biotechnological ingredients, together with the optimisation of natural active extraction through fermentation, supercritical fluids and natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES).
Development of new cosmetic formulations
This research line encompasses the development of formulations at laboratory scale and their validation in a semi-industrial plant, optimising processes and technologies to facilitate knowledge transfer to production environments. This approach makes it possible to assess the feasibility of new solutions and accelerate their application in innovative products tailored to market needs.
Omics technologies and nutricosmetics
This research line addresses the study and development of functional ingredients and actives through the application of omics technologies, such as dermogenomics, providing insight into the influence of genes on skin health. This knowledge drives the design of innovative solutions for cosmetics and nutricosmetics, meeting new market needs with a scientific and personalised approach.
Featured cosmetic R&D projects
INNATUR
R&D on the extraction and stabilisation of natural ingredients for use in cosmetic formulations
BIOACTIVE
Research into processes for obtaining and validating natural actives for the cosmetics sector
AGROMATTER
Cervera network for developing sustainable technical materials from agricultural by-products and waste from the conservation of natural areas
CIRCULAR GLOW
Industrial waste stabilisation technologies for the sustainable production of cosmetic ingredients
COLDMADE
Development of cosmetic solutions based on sustainable cold manufacturing processes
OMIPERBIO
Personalised omics ingredients to improve the microbiome, health and food quality from a multisectoral perspective
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