In December 2024, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) introduced two new standards that mark a milestone in the evaluation of sunscreen efficacy: ISO 23675:2024 and ISO 23698:2024. These standards introduce more ethical, accurate, and efficient methods, significantly improving upon previous approaches such as ISO 24444:2019 and ISO 24443:2021.
AITEX, always aligned with the latest developments in cosmetic industry regulations, is implementing these new standards in its Sun Protection Factor (SPF) testing to offer the most ethical and accurate evaluation possible.
What Do the Two New SPF Standards Involve?
ISO 23675:2024 – In Vitro Determination of Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
This standard introduces the “Double Plate Method” (DPM) for in vitro SPF determination. The method is based on ultraviolet transmission spectroscopy, measuring UV radiation transmission through suitable transparent substrates to predict in vivo SPF values.
One of the main advantages of DPM is that it does not require human volunteers, making it a fully in vitro method. It has also shown high reproducibility and strong correlation with in vivo SPF values.
ISO 23698:2024 – Measurement of Sunscreen Efficacy Using Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS)
This standard presents a hybrid method combining in vivo and in vitro techniques to assess sunscreen efficacy. It uses Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS) to measure SPF, UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF), and the critical wavelength of sunscreen products.
This non-invasive approach minimises volunteer exposure to UV radiation and delivers fast, accurate results.
Advantages Over Previous Standards
ISO 24444:2019, preceding ISO 23675:2024, outlines an in vivo method for SPF determination, involving the exposure of human skin to UV radiation. While widely accepted, this method poses ethical and logistical challenges, such as individual response variability and the need to ensure participant safety.
ISO 24443:2021, preceding ISO 23698:2024, describes an in vitro method for determining UVA protection using rough substrates that simulate human skin. Although it reduces the need for human testing, variability in results has been observed due to differences in product application.
The new ISO 23675:2024 and ISO 23698:2024 standards offer several significant advantages:
>By reducing or eliminating the need for human testing, these methods address ethical concerns related to UV exposure.
>Both methods have demonstrated strong correlation with in vivo SPF values, providing more accurate, consistent, and reproducible results.
>Being less invasive and faster, these methods enable more agile evaluation of sunscreen products, potentially accelerating product development and market entry.
Implementation of the New SPF Standards at AITEX
AITEX, committed to innovation and excellence in the cosmetics industry, is already working with ISO 23675:2024 and ISO 23698:2024 in its sunscreen evaluation processes. By adopting these new methods, AITEX offers a more ethical, accurate, and efficient service to its clients, aligning with the latest advancements in sunscreen testing regulations.
The inclusion of these standards represents a major step forward in evaluating sunscreen efficacy, offering more ethical, precise, and efficient methods compared to previous standards. AITEX’s implementation reinforces its commitment to quality and innovation in the cosmetics sector, ensuring clients receive cutting-edge services in sunscreen product analysis.