OPENTEX – OPEN-END YARNS FROM SUSTAINABLE FIBRE WITH INTRINSIC TRACEABILITY TO COMBAT COPYING
Polyester fibres are the most widely used worldwide, and account for approximately 70% of the synthetic fibre market. This high demand has consequences including the scarcity of resources (oil, non-renewable material) and high greenhouse gas emissions.
Additionally, the mass production of the different types of synthetic polymers, some 10 billion tons of virgin plastics until 2018, have generated around 7 billion tons of plastic waste worldwide in landfills, rivers and seas.
Coupled with society’s growing environmental awareness, manufacturers are beginning to look at the use of recycled materials and minimise the release of micro plastics into our water. The emergence of recycled polyester fibre is a reality that poses challenges for companies in the value chain of the Valencian Textile Sector.
On the other hand, globally, almost 10% of products are imitations or illegal copies. This not only constitutes a serious source of losses for manufacturers and distributors, but may lead to a manufacturer being improperly sued for the poor performance of counterfeit goods. Additionally, lack of traceability means no one can be fined for the environmental damage caused.
AITEX has detected sufficient need to propose the OPENTEX project to develop innovative open-end yarns from new functional materials with new anti–copy properties and therefore an intrinsic traceability.
The yarns will be environmentally friendly and sustainable as they use recycled polymeric materials such as recycled polyester from bottles as well as properties that minimise the release of micro plastics into water during washing. All these advantages will also aid the competitiveness of Valencian companies as they represent added-value factors to products.
The core objective of the project is to develop new open-end textile yarns from recycled raw materials incorporating marker additives to hinder falsification, ensure traceability and confer properties that minimise the release of micro plastics during washing.
The project will involve different spinning tests with different raw materials and compositions (mixtures with cotton, linen and silk), to obtain sustainable fabrics. A consideration is that with polyester as one of the most widely used textiles, availability will be limited in the near future, so recycling and / or reuse will become increasingly important, as well as the aspect of traceability and minimal water contamination.
The specific objectives of the project focus on the implementation and use of new sustainable raw materials such as recycled polyester with anti–copy capacity and minimal release of fibres to water for the subsequent development of new open-end yarns.
In summary, the OPENTEX project proposes the development of new open-end yarns from sustainable material such as recycled polyester (rPET) and has two additional goals: an anti–copy capability (for intrinsic traceability) and reduced micro plastic release.
The expected results of the project will be truly innovative, creating sustainable fabrics with intrinsic traceability from very fine yarns, made from short fibre of 0.6-0.9 dpf and high tenacity values (> 6 gr / den).
Additionally, the fibres will incorporate new functionalities such as anti-counterfeiting capacity and reduced micro plastic release.
Therefore, the expected results after the successful completion of the project based on the proposed objectives are:
- To define the state of the art and technology, as well as the requirements and materials available for the execution of the project.
- To develop new functionalised open-end yarns, from natural fibreblends with recycled PET and LMPET.
- To createnew formulations based on recycled polyester with anti–copy tracers.
- To research and develop new functional and sustainable multifilaments of low denier and high tenacity.
- To research crimp and fibrecutting and finishing processes on the different fibres developed.
- To manufacture woven, knitted andbrushed fabrics for fashion, home textiles and contract furniture.
- To disseminate and transfer the results of the project to manufacturingin the sectors involved and to the public according to the dissemination and transfer plans described.
Some of the applications to which the results of the OPENTEX project are directed include fashion, automotive, home textiles, furniture and contract furniture.
This project is funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball de la Generalitat Valenciana, through IVACE, and is co funded by ERDF from the European Commission within the framework of the Operational Programme FEDER for the Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020.
GRANT NUMBER: IMDEEA/2019/55
AMOUNT: 153.212,48 €
- Year: 2019
- Status: Finished
- Entity: IVACE