Author

Neus Jorda

Research projects in high added-value textile solutions for strategic markets

23rd April 2019

AITEX defines its research projects in line with the European Strategic Agenda for Innovation and Research in the Textile and Clothing Industry, Horizon 2025. The Strategic Agenda identifies and describes the most important strategic research lines for the textile industry and the research priorities within the horizon of the next few years to 2025. The Agenda has identified 4 Strategic Innovation Themes which are essential because of their particular impact on the evolution of the textile and clothing industry:

I. New high-performance, functionalised textile materials

II. Advanced manufacturing and digitalisation of the value chain and business models (Industry 4.0)

III. The circular economy and resource efficiency

IV. High added-value solutions for growing strategic markets

AITEX is researching the following lines concerned with high added-value solutions for growing strategic markets:

  • Research into added-value textile solutions for the habitat sector. VALHABITAT

The core objective is to carry out research and analysis and offer consultation and transfer of trends to promote product development in the HABITAT sector.

All the trends we have studied are focused on HABITAT and more specifically on products which are influenced by society: sociocultural and technological factors whose development impacts a particular market.

  • Research of high added-value solutions for cosmetics.  

The main objective of the COSMÉTICA  project is to study and develop high added-value solutions for cosmetics, particularly as regards:

  • Research of new natural ingredients with cosmetic properties
  • Research into the encapsulation of active compounds to enhance their functionality, stability and to enable their release over time.
  • Research into new cosmetic formats to apply active compounds: nanofibre veils to encapsulate and protect delicate active compounds.
  •  Design and manufacture of double-sided nanofibre veils and research into their biological performance for periodontal treatment. DENTALTEX

The motivation behind DENTALTEX was that the morphology and ability to release periodontal drugs and compounds would justify the development of an optimised alternative to the non-additivated membranes currently available.

The project has developed a double-sided bioabsorbable nanofibre veil which can provide specific properties depending on the side used, to treat different areas affected by periodontal disease. One face of the veil is designed to promote alveolar bone regrowth and the other to regenerate periodontal ligament and the radicular cement.

These projects are funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball of the Generalitat Valenciana, through IVACE.

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AITEX’s Advanced Protective Equipment Laboratory

LABORATORIES & INNOVATION

17th May 2019

lab_ocular

AITEX’s mission is to continue to innovate and improve the services we provide by concentrating on the evolution of our laboratory facilities for PPE’s which were outside the scope of our original remit. As a Notified Body, we have worked for years evaluating the conformity of PPE’s such as gloves, clothing and harnesses. Harnessing our experience to meet our clients’ demands, we have strived to equip our laboratories with the most up to date equipment to evaluate PPEs designed for eye, facial and respiratory protection, helmets and dielectric gloves for high-tension power line workers.

There are many different types of risk factors which could affect an operator’s eyesight at work and the right type of PPE must be selected for a given health and safety risk.

Another risk to which operators may be exposed, and of no less importance, is that of lung diseases contracted from breathing contaminated or oxygen-deficient air at work. The employer must provide operators with respiratory protection as a preventative measure whenever necessary, as risks may cause irreversible harm or even death, and this type of PPE is classified as Type III.

Type III PPEs provide protection in high-tension work, and the use of insulating gloves and sleeves is obligatory in any work environment where the risk exists. The laboratory performs non-destructive testing to current standards to individually test PPEs before use and then again six months later to ensure that the article continues to provide the class of protection for which it has been designed.

Last but not least is head protection: the head houses different vital organs that need protecting  and which are exposed to different risks including mechanical injuries such as trauma and impact, noise, vibration, electromagnetic radiation, electricity, aerosols, particle vapours etc.

AITEX has extended its scope as a Notified Body to cover the evaluation of different filtration and respiratory equipment. To meet these wider needs, the Institute has recently installed a range of testing equipment to comply with the various standards necessary to certify a whole array of protective equipment.

Requirements for helmets

The minimum requirements that a helmet must comply with depend on the degree and nature of the risk. According to the EU’s harmonised list of standards, the following apply to helmet certification:

  • EN 397:2012+A1:2012 Industrial Safety Helmets
  • EN 50365:2002 Insulating helmets for use on low voltage installations
  • EN 812 Industrial bump caps
  • EN 14052 High performance industrial helmets
  • EN 443:2008 Helmets for firefighting in buildings and other structures
  • EN 966:2012+A1:2012 Helmets for airborne sports
  • EN 1077:2007 Helmets for alpine skiers and snowboarders
  • EN 1078:2012+A1:2012 Helmets for pedal cyclists and for users of skateboards and roller skates
  • EN 12492:2012 Mountaineering equipment. Helmets for mountaineers. Safety requirements and test methods

Ocular and facial protection requirements

Harmonised standard EN 166:2001 specifies the necessary requirements for a PPE to be certified as offering protection against a range of risks, and further classifies the PPE as optical (EN 167: 2001) and non-optical (EN 168:2001). The first category covers properties including transmittance, optical power and light diffusion.

Obligatory requirements include the following tests: incremental resistance, resistance to ageing, stability in high temperatures, UV resistance, resistance to corrosion and fire, and others.

Specific requirements depend on the type of protectors and particular protection against different risks including: optical radiation, impact by high speed particles, molten metal, burning solids, liquid splashes and drips, large dust particles, gases and fine particles, electric arc flash and side protection. Electrical arc flash is tested under GS ET 29 and performed at AITEX’s Madrid facilities.

Optional requirements include resistance to surface deterioration by fine particles, fogging, protection with high IR reflectance and impact by high-speed, high-temperature particles.

Requirements for respiratory protection

Filtering respiratory equipment can comprise the following components:

1. Face adaptor + filter

– Face adaptor:

  • Full mask (EN 136).
  • Half or quarter mask (EN 140)

– Filters:

  • Particle filter (EN 143)
  • Gas filter, gas and particle filter (EN 14387)

– Masks without inhalation valves and with detachable gas filters, gas and particle filters or particle only filters (EN 1827)

2. Self-filtering mask

– Self-filtering masks can be fitted with a valve or not:

  • Against particles (EN 149)
  • Against gases and gases and particles (EN 405)

Requirements for insulating gloves and sleeves

AITEX tests safety equipment made of elastomers for electrical work (rubber and latex, synthetic, natural or combined).

Insulating gloves are covered by EN 60903:2003 + C1:2003 + C2:2005 and are categorised as below:

  • Insulating gloves (IG).
  • Composite gloves (with mechanical properties) (CG).
  • Long composite gloves (LG).

Classification by special properties are designated as follows:

  • A    Acid
  • H    Oil
  • Z    Ozone
  • R    Acid, oil and ozone
  • C    Very low temperatures

Insulating sleeves are covered by EN 60984:1992 and IEC 60984:2014 and are categorised as below:

  • Straight sleeve
  • Curved or angled sleeve

Classification by special properties are designated as follows:

  • A    Acid
  • H    Oil
  • Z    Ozone
  • S    Oil and ozone
  • C    Very low temperatures

EU Certification of Type

Before any PPE can be marketed in the EU it must meet the health and safety requirements laid out in EU Standard 2016/425, through the following evaluation of conformity procedure: EU Examination of Type (module B).

Through the procedure, the Notified Body not only evaluates the prototype of the PPE using harmonised testing procedures, but also its technical documentation, the information leaflet accompanying the article and its labelling. Once approved, the Notified Body will issue an evaluation report and an EC Certificate of Type.

The EU Certificate of Type will be issued together with either of the following options:

  •  Conformity of type based on an internal production appraisal and random supervised production QA checks (module C2) 
  •  Conformity of type based on production QA testing (module D)

AITEX has recently been approved and notified to test, evaluate and certify personal respiratory protection equipment under module B and to issue the EU Certificate of Type. The Institute has also been approved to evaluate Category III PPEs (module C2); which requires AITEX to undertake random production testing at least once a year, and at the latest a year after issuing the certificate to verify production homogeneity and the PPE’s conformity with that described in its EU Certificate of Type. Once each step has been completed, the manufacturer must then display the EC kite mark on its products, in compliance with the EU’s harmonised requirements and may then market the articles.

Protection equipment in this category, and the EC mark, must show the identification number of the Notified Body that carries out the production QA testing and be accompanied by a Declaration of Conformity in accordance with annexe VI, Standard 2016/425, for each PPE model.

More information: 

AITEX’s Advanced PPE Testing Laboratory israel.soriano@aitex.es 

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Registration open for the 7th “Companies with a Human Face” Symposium
7ºSimposio

The 13th of June will see the 7th “Companies with a Human Face” Symposium organised by the Chair for Mission Management and Corporate Government of the Catalonia International University (UIC).

The subject of the Symposium is «the future of work», and the day will be a chance for business people, managers, academics and researchers to meet and discuss their concerns and hopes for better management of organisations based on the full development of human potential.

The symposium will take place in the Auditorio Sophia at the Hotel Las Arenas in Valencia.

As a member of the Mission Management Chair, AITEX has a range of special offers available:

      • AITEX associated company (first enrolled person): free
      • AITEX associated company (each additional enrolled person): 60€ per person.
      • AITEX clients: 60€ per person.

For more information and enrolment forms: http://direccionpormisiones.uic.es/13-de-junio-la-fecha-del-7o-simposio-empresas-con-rostro-humano/

Contact:

Quico Sempere – Institutional Department

qsempere@aitex.es

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Notified Body for the certification of marine equipment

LABORATORIES & INNOVATION

25 de abril

inside of a luxury boat, beautiful cabine interior

Maritime transport is a market in continuous growth and most articles connected with it require special certification. Among other requirements, any article must pass safety standards which are covered by international agreements.

Health and safety in international maritime transport

The International Maritime Organisation (IMO) is the UN’s specialised agency that deals with the safety and protection of international maritime transport and the prevention of marine pollution by ships. It was created by virtue of an agreement adopted on March 17, 1948 in Geneva, under the auspices of the United Nations, and met for the first time in January 1959. It currently has 172 Member States.

In the beginning, its remit revolved around the drawing up of international agreements and regulations on safety and prevention of marine pollution. The first task of the IMO when it was created in 1959, was to adopt a new version of the International Convention for the Safety of Human Life at Sea (SOLAS Convention), the most important of all maritime safety treaties.

The main objective of the SOLAS Convention is to establish minimum standards for the safety of the construction, equipment and use of ships. Flag States are responsible for ensuring that ships flying their flag comply with the provisions of the Convention, which prescribes the issuance of a series of certificates as proof that this has been done.

The global dimension of shipping requires the European Commission to implement and support the international regulatory framework for maritime safety.

Harmonisation across the EU solves these problems. Directive 2014/90 / EU together with Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2018/773 and other international instruments, establish common rules to eliminate differences in the application of international standards through a series of clearly identified requirements and uniform certification procedures.

The free movement of goods is a cornerstone of the European single market and the EU has developed original and innovative instruments to eliminate barriers to the free movement of goods. The mechanisms established to achieve this objective are based on the prevention of new obstacles to trade, mutual recognition and technical harmonisation.

MarED (Marine Equipment Directive)

The Marine Equipment Directive (MarED) provides a framework for coordination and cooperation between its members, the Commission and observers in the implementation of the Maritime Equipment Directive. It is the intention of MarED to be a conduit for the exchange of information among the members and to harmonise technical aspects. In addition, MarED aims to resolve areas of doubt to enable a consensus to be reached on the procedures of EC-type examination and type examination modules in order to avoid differences between Notified Bodies.

AITEX’s role as a Notified Body

AITEX is Notified Body number 0161 and can issue marine equipment certificates for fire protection, accredited under EN ISO/IEC 17065:2012 and is recognised by the IMO. The Institute is approved to issue certificates for the following articles:

  • MED/3.1: Primary deck coating
  • MED/3.3: Firefighting equipment: Protective clothing (immediate proximity)
  • MED/3.5: Firefighting equipment: Gloves
  • MED/3.13: Non-combustible material
  • MED/3.18: Flame-retardant surfaces and floor coatings
  • MED/3.19: Upholstery, curtains and other hanging textiles
  • MED/3.20: Upholstered furniture
  • MED/3.21: Bedding

For more information:
AITEX’s Fire Behaviour Laboratory
: cdolza@aitex.es

Artículo publicado en AITEX review nº61, seguir leyendo: https://www.aitex.es/revista/

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AITEX participates in the 3rd meeting of the European project VESTLIFE

R&D PROJECT

AITEX participates in the 3rd meeting of the European project VESTLIFE (Ultralight modular bullet proof integral solution for dismounted soldier protection) in Bergamo (Italy), where preliminary results have been presented and the European Defense Agency (EDA) Project Officer, representatives of the Spanish, Portuguese and Finnish Armies as well as the different centers and companies from Spain, Netherlands, Portugal, Italy and Finland participating in this project coordinated by AITEX have participated.

 

This project has received funding from the European Union’s Preparatory Action on Defence Research under grant agreement No PADR FPSS-01-2017- GA 800876”. This publication reflects only the author’s view and the EDA and the EC are not responsible for any use that may be made of the information it contains.

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AITEX will be in attendance at TECHTEXTIL Frankfurt from the 14 to the 17 of May

AITEX will be at the upcoming international technical textile fair, Techtextil Frankfurt, which will take place from the 14th to the 17th May.

The AITEX Technological Institute will be in Hall 3.1 stand B53, showing the innovations and R & D projects that the Institute is currently developing, in addition to introducing the 50 experimental plants where value-added solutions are developed for technical markets, and where we develop and research smart, technical textiles and new high-performance materials.

The Techtextil fair is the largest international exhibition of technical textiles, nonwovens and functional clothing textiles. The fair is the world’s leading platform for researchers, engineers, manufacturers and users of technical textiles with applications in fashion, sports, personal protection, construction, medicine, agriculture and the automotive industry.

The motto of the 2019 edition is ‘Space for innovation’, and visitors will be able to attend exhibitions as well as enjoy an extensive program of conferences by experts on different areas of application in the Techtextil Forum.

Alongside Techtextil, Texprocess will showcase all the latest innovations in machines, services and solutions for the textile industry of the future.

Techtextil and Texprocess bring together 1,800 international companies and 47,000 professional visitors from around the world.

More information:

Techtextil: https://techtextil.messefrankfurt.com

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The 3rd worth project call opens

New opportunities for designers, creative artists, craftspeople, SMEs and technology companies.

After the success of the recently closed second call, new opportunities have opened up in the development of innovative designer products in textile, fashion, footwear, furniture, leather, accessories and jewellery through transnational collaborations.

The third call of the Worth Partnership program is an opportunity for all those who have an innovative idea with an emphasis on design and who are seeking the support they need to see it through to completion.

The second call was a massive achievement for the WORTH community: 183 candidates, 80 shortlisted projects from 27 countries in the European Union and 65 selected.

The Worth Partnership Project is the first hotbed dedicated to design projects, a four-year initiative funded by the EU’s COSME program to promote the development of innovative products in the creative industries through transnational collaboration between designers, traditional and digital crafts and technological and craft manufacturing industries.

Worth Weekend Valencia

The WORTH Weekend Valencia took place in March, bringing together creative artists and experts from across Europe. The setting was the City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia. The 25 winners of the first WORTH call showed off the progress their products had achieved and shared their experiences with visitors of new ways of creating an innovative design based on transnational collaboration.

The weekend was completed by a series of informative lectures on industry topics, such as “The new generation of biomaterials and their bond with technology and design”, “3D printed fashion”, “Intellectual property rights”, “Positioning and branding: Identity. Narrative and brand content “and” How to be a successful creative entrepreneur”, by leading experts in the world of fashion, design, communication and business.

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Workshop: ‘The textile future: digital and global’

On April 9th, AITEX held the “Textile Future: digital and global’ workshop on the reference points in the global market: consumption, international trends and digitalisation. The day was supported jointly by ATEVAL, Home textiles from Spain, Home textiles premium by TEXTILHOGAR, Feria Valencia and the Creativewear Project.

In the first presentation, Francesco Bolli and Serena Ponticelli, from Patro Textile Museum, introduced a cataloguing software – Patro Heritage Hub Experience – for the management of the museum’s content and exhibits, developed within the European CREATIVEWEARproject, in which AITEX also participates. During the session there was a demonstration of the software’s most important tools, and the installation and configuration requirements for the free HERITAGE MANAGER software which digitises textile design files.

The following presentation, by Rosa María Herrero, CEO of InfinityInner, presented the CUBE zone which will feature in the next edition of Home Textiles Premium by TEXTILHOGAR. CUBE is a CONTRACT FURNISHING space which will include presentations by publishers and interior designs by experts in contract furnishing who will decorate a series of inspiring interiors. Leila Bachetarzi from ATEVAL spoke about the profile of foreign buyers who have been invited to Home Textiles Premium by TEXTILHOGAR, to be held in Madrid from 11 to 13 September at the Caja Magical.
The day’s last lecture was ‘Trends for home textiles 19/20’, a study prepared by AITEX and Metrocomunicación, looking at the latest trends, keys and ideas that will influence textiles and home furnishing in 2020.

The Conference was brought to a finish by José Ramón Revert, President of Home Textiles Premium and Vice President of AITEX, who encouraged all present to get passionate about the innovations appearing in the exciting world of textiles.

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NEW OEKO-TEX® REGULATIONS FOR 2019

LABORATORIES & INNOVATION

1st April 2019

For 2019, the objective of the OEKO-TEX® Association is to strengthen consumer protection and sustainability throughout the textile and leather value chain. Existing guidelines for OEKO-TEX® certifications have been modified in early 2019. The new regulations come into force on April 1st 2019, after a three-month transition period.

Below is an overview of the main changes:

OEKO-TEX® cumple con la nueva “Legislación CMR del Anexo XVII de REACH”

Benzene and four amine salts have been included in STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® and the LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX®, which sets their limits. Quinoline, which has been under observation by OEKO-TEX® since 2018, is now also regulated with a limit value.

In the course of the standardisation of requirements the symbol “<” now applies to almost all limit values.

For more than 25 years, OEKO-TEX® strategy has not been to wait for legislation, but rather to be proactive as a pioneer in consumer protection. As a result of the implementation of the updates mentioned above, STANDARD 100 and LEATHER STANDARD already meet the requirements of the new “REACH legislation of Annex XVII CMR” (Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/1513). In contrast, this legislation addressing 33 CMR substances will only apply to products as of November 1, 2020, making OEKO-TEX® a way to stay ahead while covering many other consumer issues.

New limit values for certificates

The incorporation of several substances: the siloxanes D4, D5 and D6, as well as diazene-1,2-dicarboxamide (ADCA). In addition, a requirement for barium and selenium extractable metals has now been established.

The requirements of Appendix 6 for phthalate (softener) parameters, as well as per- and poly-fluorinated compounds have been restricted, which will result in a lower overall impact on the environment, operators and consumers.

Glyphosate under observation

In 2019, two new product groups will be under observation: glyphosate and its salts, as well as the Carcinogenic N-nitrosamines and N-nitrosatable substances.

Glyphosate products are found in herbicides, receiving heavy media attention during 2017 and 2018, and were the subject of controversial debates around the world. At the end of 2017, glyphosate was temporarily approved by the EU for five years, despite the protests of various consumer and environmental groups. The OEKO-TEX® Association is currently analysing glyphosate more closely in textile materials.

A broad catalogue of products for sustainable production

STeP by OEKO-TEX® will be extended to cover leather manufacturers in 2019. In addition, the name will also be updated to reflect this integration: “Sustainable Textile Production” will become “Sustainable textile and leather production”, but the name of the certification will remain the same: STeP by OEKO-TEX.

More information:

https://www.oeko-tex.com

Download document:

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Research projects in ICT solutions, advanced manufacturing, digitalisation and customisation

R&D PROJECTS

28th March 2019

Optimized-E-MANIQUI

In line with the European Strategic Agenda for Innovation and Research for the Textile and Clothing Industry with Horizon 2025, AITEX defines its research projects according to these strategic approaches. The Strategic Agenda identifies and describes the most important strategic lines of innovation for the textile industry and its corresponding research priorities until 2025. The Agenda has identified 4 Strategic Innovation Lines, which are essential because of their particular impact on the development of the textile and clothing industry:

I. New high-performance and functionalised textile materials.

II. Advanced manufacturing and digitalisation (industry 4.0) of value chains and business models.

III. Circular economy and resource efficiency.

IV. High value-added solutions for growing strategic markets.

With regards to advanced manufacturing and the digitisation of value chains and business models, AITEX has undertaken research in two lines:

  • Research and development of the manufacture of 3D structures using additive manufacturing technology for the creative and health industry sector. 3DTEX

The successful execution of the 3DTEX project is expected to produce the following results:

  • Design and printing of honeycomb structures for use as cores in composites.
  • Development of dental structures with different materials and printing technologies.
  • Characterisation of biocompatibility properties of the resins used.
  • Development of PLA compounds with nanographene and superconducting carbon black for conductive filaments.
  • Development of biodegradable components printed on textile backing.
  • Development of components printed on textile for fashion.
  • Development of printed conductive circuits on textile substrates.

The knowledge generated about 3D printing for new applications with innovative materials and substrates has uses not only in the creative industries and health but also in sports, leisure and the automotive industry, among others, providing the textile and clothing sector of the Valencian Community with innovative products and approaches with numerous applications.

  • Tools and digital environments for advanced manufacturing.  e-MANIQUÍ II

The e-MANIQUÍ II project created a predictive model for the behaviour of textile materials and their relationship in the virtual simulation of ready-made garments.

This predictive model is based on a library of virtual fabrics organised so as to facilitate the use of virtual garment prototyping, achieving a sufficient degree of realism between the physical and virtual results.

The results of the project contribute to the use of tools and digital environments for advanced production in textiles, clothing and fashion 4.0.

These two projects have the support of the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball of the Generalitat Valenciana, through IVACE.

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