Author

Neus Jorda

NEW OEKO -TEX® REGULATIONS FOR 2018

In 2018, the OEKO-TEX® Association endeavours to provide further targeted support on issues relating to consumer protection and sustainability throughout the textile value creation chain.

The existing guidelines of the OEKO-TEX® product portfolio were updated on 02 January. The new regulations come into effect on 01 April 2018 for all certification systems and other services, following a three-month transition period.

To find out more about the new product regulations, view the following Webinar:

Updates to the OEKO-TEX® standards and guidelines are based on the continuous exchange of experiences with industry stakeholders, cooperation in initiatives and monitoring of legal regulations. The work of OEKO-TEX® expert groups thus takes into account current scientific innovations and knowledge as well as latest market developments.

You can find the most important changes regarding the individual OEKO-TEX® products below:

DETOX TO ZERO by OEKO-TEX®

Thanks to the comparability of the DETOX TO ZERO MRSL with the valid MRSL for the STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification, DETOX TO ZERO can be fully integrated into STeP.

DETOX TO ZERO customers can convert to STeP at any time. The restructuring of the DETOX TO ZERO assessment tool and status report improves usability and clarity. The MRSL valid for DETOX TO ZERO can be viewed in the guidelines at www.oeko-tex.com/detoxtozero

LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX®

Bisphenol A, the aromatic amine aniline and additional alkylphenols (pentyl- and heptylphenol) are now included in the LEATHER STANDARD. For more detailed information on the new inclusions and other changes, see www.oeko-tex.com/ls-updates-2018.

ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX®

The ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) initiative accepts the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® as an indicator of conformity with their MRSL (harmful substance exclusion list for textile production). Upon approval, companies can have their products certified by ECO PASSPORT listed in the OEKO-TEX® Buying Guide / and if they wish from now on also in the ZDHC Chemical Gateway.
More information about new incorporations and other changes can be found at www.oeko-tex.com/ls-updates-2018.

MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX®

The minimum requirements and criteria for awarding the MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® product label have been updated. Advantages of the new definition are: improved comprehensibility and less time for label attainment: www.oeko-tex.com/madeingreen

STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®

The newly recorded harmful substances in the STANDARD 100 criteria catalogue are phenol, bisphenol A, the aromatic amine aniline as well as the additional alkylphenols, pentyl- and heptylphenol. The OEKO-TEX® Association henceforth places the substance quinoline under observation. Amended limit values also apply for short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCP) and ortho-phenylphenol (OPP). As of 1 April 2018, OEKO-TEX® plans to integrate the testing of organic cotton products for genetically modified organisms (GMO) into STANDARD 100.
More information on the new regulations for STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® available at: www.oeko-tex.com/std100-updates-2018.

STeP by OEKO-TEX®

El alcance de las evaluaciones STeP para la encuesta de datos requeridos de la empresa se reduce significativamente condensando el cuestionario. La integración de DETOX TO ZERO permite ahora emitir el certificado SteP y el informe de estado adicional con información sobre DETOX TO ZERO.

About OEKO-TEX®
With 25 years of experience, OEKO-TEX® leads the world in empowering and enabling consumers and companies to protect our planet by making responsible decisions. OEKO-TEX® provides standardised solutions which optimise customers’ manufacturing processes and help deliver high quality, more sustainable products. All of the products within the OEKO-TEX® portfolio are used to strengthen our customers’ systems, processes or products and, ultimately, they help create more sustainable companies. To date, 10,000 manufacturers, brands, and retailers in almost 100 countries are working with OEKO-TEX® to ensure that their products are tested for potentially harmful substances and millions of consumers around the world look for OEKO-TEX® labels before making buying decisions. OEKO-TEX® certified products and suppliers can be located in the OEKO-TEX® Online Buying Guide at www.oeko-tex.com/products. 

23 March, 2018 0 comment
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NEW REGULATIONS FOR COSMETICS PRODUCTS IN SPAIN

It has been considered necessary to develop an appropriate European-wide legal instrument for cosmetic products that imposes clear and detailed rules that avoid divergent transpositions by individual Member States. To this end, Regulation (EC) No. 1223/200 of the European Parliament and the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products has been adopted.

 

Below is a summary of the most important aspects of Royal Decree 85/2018, February 23, which regulates cosmetic products.

“The aforementioned Regulation establishes that cosmetic products must be safe under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of use, and must respect the rules of composition and labelling provided. Each product must be traceable to a responsible person in the European Union and the traceability of each of the cosmetic products in the supply chain must be guaranteed.

To ensure their safety, all commercially available cosmetic products must be manufactured in accordance with the principles of best manufacturing practices, with compliance being monitored by national authorities. The aspects that the European standard leaves to the Member States can be regulated at national level. Therefore, the new Royal Decree is issued which specifies issues such as the competent authorities for the supervision of the market and for the reception and transmission of notifications of serious undesirable effects and serious risks to health, the powers of inspection and the adoption of health protection measures that correspond to these authorities, as well as the procedures to be followed. The procedures for compliance with the administrative cooperation principle are also regulated and the instrument also specifies other issues such as those relating to the language to be used in the labelling and the information sheet supplied with cosmetic products.

In addition, the aforementioned Regulation allows each Member State to regulate the notification by health professionals or by consumers of any serious undesirable effects caused by cosmetic products to the competent national authorities. In the Spanish Cosmetovigilance System, the rules for operation will be dictated in accordance with the functions contemplated in article 35.6 of the Statute of the AEMPS, approved by Royal Decree 1275/2011, of September 16, by which the State Agency “Spanish Agency for Medicines and Health Products” has been created and its Statute approved.
With respect to cosmetics manufacturers and importers, the Royal Decree also regulates the requirements and conditions that must be met and the procedure for presenting the declaration of responsibility before the Spanish Agency for Medicines and Health Products (hereinafter AEMPS), developing section 3 of the third additional provision of the revised text of the Law on guarantees and rational use of medicines and health products, approved by Royal Legislative Decree 1/2015, of July 24.

At a national level, article 40, sections 5 and 6 of Law 14/1986, of April 25, General Health attributes to the General State Administration powers for regulation, authorisation, registration or homologation, as appropriate , of medicines for human and veterinary use and of other health products and articles and of those that, by affecting human beings, may pose a risk to public health, as well as to regulate and authorise the activities of manufacturers and importers of the aforementioned products. Additionally, based on article 40.6 of the aforementioned law, the AEMPS has been issuing authorisations for activities involved in the manufacture and importation of cosmetic products.

The revised text of the Law on Guarantees and Rational Use of Medicines and Medical Devices establishes that the conditions and requirements to be met for the manufacture, importation, clinical research, distribution, commercialisation, dispensation and use of medical devices and the respective administrative procedures will be determined by regulation in accordance with the provisions of European Union regulations. It is further provided that what is established in this section shall also apply, as appropriate, to personal care products and cosmetics.

This same additional provision establishes that the activities of manufacturing and importing cosmetics and personal care products are subject to the system of the declaration of responsibility regulated in article 69 of Law 39/2015, of October 1, of the Common Administrative Procedure of Public Administrations. This declaration of responsibility must be presented to the AEMPS. The presentation of the declaration of responsibility will enable the company to commence activities, without prejudice to subsequent verification by the AEMPS, through documentary verification and, where appropriate, inspection of the elements and circumstances revealed by the interested party in the declaration of responsibility.

Contacte con nosotros

Unidad técnica cosmética: nblanes@aitex.es

22 March, 2018 0 comment
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NEW FUNCTIONAL MATERIALS FABRICATED IN COLLABORATION WITH THE TEXTILE AND ELECTRONICS INDUSTRIES

R+D PROJECT

The SMARTCOMP project has as its main objective the development of intelligent textile structures for use in the manufacture of composites with a heat stable matrix: an application of great interest to the decoration, interior design, habitat and other creative industries.

SMARTCOMP focuses on the development of smart textile structures equipped with textronic components for use in the development of multifunctional, heat stable composites.

R+D work in the textile industry has in recent years been looking closely at the applications for composites and the fabrication of high-performance, low-cost textile structures. Smart textiles offer the textile industry numerous possibilities for innovation in terms of new multifunctional properties in the field of composite materials.

The challenge facing the R & D project is in obtaining smart textiles capable of being integrated into the multilayer structure of a composite material that is then formed in the vacuum-assisted resin infusion process. The structures must be made from textiles with an average thermal resistance and which are also compatible with the heat-cured resins conventionally used in this field.

The project has the support of the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball of the Generalitat Valenciana through IVACE, and is co-financed by the ERDF funds of the EU, within the ERDF Operational Program of the Comunitat Valenciana 2014 -2020. FILE: IMDEEA / 2018/116

IVACE GV 2018-FEDER-CS-color
21 March, 2018 0 comment
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THE PRESENTATION OF TRADITIONAL COSTUMES BY THE CREATIVEWEAR PROJECT

Presentation of the prototypes developed by the INTERREG MED CREATIVEWEAR project at a workshop organised by AITEX.  

The INTERREG MED CREATIVEWEAR project in which technology and innovation, creativity design and tradition have gone hand in hand to develop new Fallera and Moors and Christians Costumes.

During the morning of the 9th a visit was made to AITEX, where different technologies are used to develop new fabrics and designs. The visit took in the Institute’s experimental wetlaid plant, the polymer extrusion plant, the high-performance embroidery equipment used in the development of smart textiles and the technical finishing laboratory. The Creativewear project consortium has successfully applied these new technologies to traditional clothing.

In the afternoon, the visitors were treated to a fashion show and exhibition of the works carried out with the collaboration of Valencian artists, designers, garment manufacturers and textile companies where prototype Fallera and Moors and Christians costumes developed during the project could be more closely inspected. To create the collection, clean garment-finishing technologies have been used, such as lasers, nanobubbles and ozone, to finish the garments, and the common denominator underlying all of the technologies is their sustainability.

CREATIVEWEAR is a European project whose objective is to revitalise the Textile-Clothing sector through the promotion of creativity, personalised design and artisanal and small-scale production, supported by Mediterranean heritage and culture. CREATIVEWEAR also seeks to promote and support cooperation between creators and the manufacturing sector.

Proyecto CreativeWear

Program co-finance for FEDER

The information and opinions represented on this website only reflect the opinions of the authors and not the views of the Managing Authority. No person acting on their behalf can be held responsible for the use that may be made of the information it contains.

13 March, 2018 0 comment
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THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY: AN OPTION FOR THE FUTURE FOR OUR YOUTH

AITEX, ATEVAL and a representation of companies in the textile sector present the employment opportunities offered by the textile sector.

The Conference for teachers, tutors and counsellors of 3rd and 4th of E.S.O. in schools and institutes of the Valencian Community was held at AITEX to present the employment opportunities that the textile sector offers to young people.
Representatives from the textile sector, Pepe Serna, general secretary of ATEVAL, Jorge Mataix, manager of R. Belda Llorens and Rafael Pascual, president of AITEX, described the current situation of the textile industry to the audience: where it is headed, what jobs are most in demand and what are the most pressing needs in the textile industry.

Marina Sánchez, General Director of Vocational Training and Special Education, Pablo Díaz, professor at the Polytechnic University of Valencia and Fernando Sansaloni, Director of the IES Cotes Baixes talked about the different training options open to young people, at university and in vocational training courses.

The Polytechnic University of Valencia, offers the Master in textile engineering in collaboration with AITEX, with the aim of training professionals capable of providing optimal solutions in the processes of textile engineering. The modern textile industry requires trained people, with the capacity to lead companies and textile research centres to face the challenges posed by new skills, to help to promote the development of new products and increase competitiveness in the renewed textile market. Pablo Díaz presented success stories of students who are now working in leading companies in the textile sector.

The IES Cotes Baixes spoke about the advantages offered by dual vocational training, since it gives companies access to qualified professional operators and employees, and gives students extensive practical experience in the workplace. The IES Cotes Baixes offers training in production and textile finishing.

It is essential that careers guidance counsellors are made aware of the opportunities that the textile sector offers for young people and that the councillor and the parents can guide young students in 3rd and 4th grades of E.S.O. for their future careers and present the textile industry as one with a bright future and which is innovative, attractive and multidisciplinary in nature.

The day was rounded off with a visit to AITEX’s facilities to underline to the attendees the innovative potential offered by the textile sector.

12 March, 2018 0 comment
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AITEX PROMOTES ITS WORK IN SAFETY CONTROLS FOR MATERIALS IN CONTACT WITH FOODSTUFF

Ensuring that what we eat is safe not only relies on the analytical control of the food, but also includes the control of the material or object that is intended to be in contact with this food.

What are the materials and articles intended to be in contact with food?

They include all those designed to come into contact or which are already in contact with foodstuff and are specifically intended for that purpose and those which can be expected to come into contact or which can transfer their components during normal or foreseeable use. These products are widely distributed in the market and form a very large variety of families of materials from rubber, glass and textiles to silicones and plastics.

What products does it apply to?

When we see the pictogram we all think of a Tupperware container, however there are many other products such as gloves, aprons, tablecloths, covers and ham cords, water filters, threads and skins for sausages, conveyor belts, nonwovens and threads for infusions, bibs, cloths, reusable sandwich bags, clothing for the food industry, in short any material that may come into contact with food must meet legislative requirements, in terms of analysis, labelling and its associated documentation.

How are they controlled?

Generally speaking there are two regulations, regardless of the material in question, which must be complied with:

  • EC Regulation 1935/2004, 27th October 2004, by the European Parliament and Council on materials and articles designed to come into contact with food.
  • EC Regulation 2023/2006, 22nd December 2006, by the European Commission, on best practices in the manufacture of materials and articles designed to come into contact with food.

Materials intended to come into contact with food should not represent a danger to human health. All chemical substances used in manufacturing must be safe and stable in their formulation so that they do not migrate to food. Manufacturers and / or distributors must protect the safety of the materials to ensure that the quality and food safety is not affected by it and must also comply with the requirements established by good manufacturing practices.

Why the need for control?

These materials can release substances from their components to foods that they are in contact with, even if in very small quantities. This “migration” can compromise the quality of the material and, more importantly, consumer safety, which is why they are subject to strict safety regulations. The risk of regulatory breach, legal liabilities and product recalls can be reduced by checking the compliance of the material before placing it on the market. In Spain, official controls at national level are coordinated between the Autonomous Communities (CCAA) and the Spanish Agency for Consumption, Food Safety and Nutrition (AECOSAN). Specifically, they are described in the 16 MECA’S PROGRAM, whose objective is to reduce the appearance of risks linked to migration levels in packaging and materials in contact with food, in accordance with current legislation.

How can we help?

AITEX provides solutions to the various industries involved in manufacturing materials to be in contact with food at each stage of the supply chain, through the development of tests, materials inspection, training, and by providing support in documentation and labelling. We have an ENAC-approved laboratory according to ISO 17025 to carry out all necessary tests.

20 February, 2018 0 comment
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Postgraduate course in Technology and Textile Innovation, jointly with IED Madrid

TRAINING

AITEX participates in the Postgraduate Course in Technology and Textile Innovation given by the IED in Madrid which focuses on research and technology as key values for fashion.  

 

The exponential growth experienced by the world of fashion is forcing designers and brands to face up to new challenges such as innovative fabrics, new processes and distribution models, etc. which are providing the industry with key values while meeting the needs of tomorrow’s consumers.

Technology offers new characteristics which add value to a product and set it aside from the competition; materials which can change colour with changes in temperature, garments with wearable technology and those made with stain-repellent technical fabrics, to name a few.

The Postgraduate Course in Technology and Textile Innovation will give the student a wide range of knowledge in the application of new technologies in materials, manufacturing processes and management techniques.

The goals of the postgraduate course include: 
  • To discover new technological materials which will expand our creative possibilities.
  • Learn about proven, working state-of-the-art processes, which provide added-value factors to each stage of the product’s life cycle.
  • Give the student all the skills necessary to carry out a product development project, from strategic planning through to a successful project completion.
  • Gain an understanding of how the economic, environmental and human dimensions can provide key added values to a product.
  • Gain actionable know-how which will place you in the position of an expert in applied technology in the fashion world.
  • Complete a project which will serve as a portfolio of new skills and know-how.
The exciting career opportunities that will be open to you include:  
  • Business development manager
  • Product manager
  • Buyer with specialist knowledge of sustainability and innovation
  • Consultant in textile technology and sustainability
  • Designer with expert knowledge in textile innovation
  • A fashion entrepreneur
14 February, 2018 0 comment
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ADVANCED PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES IN GARMENT-MAKING AND FASHION 4.0. TOOLS AND DIGITAL ENVIRONMENTS

R+D PROJECT

In response to the digital revolution taking place in today’s industry, the e-MANIQUÍ project is focusing on the incorporation of more efficient, sustainable and cost-effective processes in the garment-making sector of the Valencian Autonomous Community, via the integration of 3D technology. 

Industrial activity in all sectors is undergoing a digital revolution and the textile and garment-making industries are no exception. All manufacturers, from large multi-nationals to micro companies are having to adapt to this digital transformation which is affecting how we design, manufacture and even purchase fashion wear.

There is a great range of digital tools available which offer manufacturers huge advantages in terms of contributing to reductions in costs and lead times. However, integrating these tools into a manufacturing process is something which many companies have yet to undertake. More conventional manufacturing systems are still the preferred method for many SMEs and the need for research into how to efficiently integrate digital tools is slowing down the rate at which they are being taken up.

The broad aim of e-maniquí is to facilitate the incorporation of more efficient, sustainable and cost-effective systems in the garment-making industry of the Valencian Autonomous Community. This will in turn contribute to the evolution of advanced garment-making and fashion 4.0 production techniques.

In this respect, 3D technology used to create virtual prototypes offers huge advantages to manufacturers by improving production processes, the use of resources, inter-departmental communication and how the manufacturer reacts to market realities.

During the development of the project, research has been carried out into how to adapt a range of variables which influence the creation of a virtual simulation to the real needs of the manufacturer depending on designs, fabrics and the demands of their customers. In addition, approaches will be developed to enable companies to adapt these variables as and when the market and fashion evolve. This is a vital facet if fully-viable virtual prototypes are to be achieved and the only way of ensuring that all of the myriad advantages of using 3D simulation are exploited to the full.

The project is funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball of the Generalitat Valenciana through IVACE, and is co-funded with the EU’s ERDF within the ERDF Operational Programme of the Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020. FILE: IMDEEA/2017/16

14 February, 2018 0 comment
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AITEX EXTENDS THE SCOPE OF CERTIFICATES IT CAN ISSUE IN THE FIELD OF PERSONAL PROTECTION EQUIPMENT

As a result of close collaboration between ASEPAL and AITEX, the catalogue of services for testing, evaluating and certifying personal protection equipment has been extended to include; gloves, helmets, fall arresters, eye and facial protection, breathing apparatus and ear defenders.

In order to meet the needs of ASEPAL partners, AITEX has expanded its service portfolio to support the manufacturers of head, eye and face protection equipment, insulating and respiratory equipment, and has been granted Notified Body status No. 0161 for the application of the new regulation (EU) 2016/425 on Personal Protection Equipment and Directive 89/686 / EEC.

AITEX, with a wide range in the certification of clothing and protective gloves against different risks, has already started expanding its catalogue with the inclusion of fall protection equipment certification, having a fall tower with 2 test areas, one for free fall and another for guided fall, to perform tests to evaluate the conformity of products such as ropes, harnesses, lifelines, and accessories such as carabiners, tapes, rings, blockers and anchors.

The Institute has incorporated a new laboratory infrastructure for the evaluation of the mandatory and optional requirements of the standards that apply to head protection equipment. AITEX carries out the certification of protective helmets for the industry according to standards EN 397, EN 14052 and EN 812, firemen’s helmets according to standards EN 443, EN 16471, EN 16473 and electrically insulating helmets in accordance with EN 50365.

Another of the fields that AITEX has developed is eye and face protection, where tests applicable to category I individual sunscreen protectors are carried out according to EN ISO 12311 and EN ISO 12312-1. In addition, the Institute performs certification of the basic requirements of eyepieces in accordance with the EN 166 standard and the different filters under EN 169, EN 170, EN 171, EN 172, EN 175 and EN 379 standards; Mesh protectors EN 1731 and protectors for firemen and emergency service EN 14458.

Likewise, AITEX offers the evaluation and certification of gloves and dielectric sleeves, under the standards EN / IEC 60903 and EN / IEC 60984.

Regarding respiratory protection, AITEX offers the evaluation of equipment for facial adapters, filtering masks and filters, verifying compliance with EN 136, EN 140, EN 1827, EN 149, EN 405, EN 143 and EN 14387.
In the near future, in order to provide a complete service to companies in the protection sector, AITEX is working to include the evaluation and certification of hearing protection equipment in its portfolio.

13 February, 2018 0 comment
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TEXTURISING, A KEY FACTOR IN SYNTHETIC FIBRE MANUFACTURE

R+D PROJECT

Colour variations during fibre processing is a worrying problem. AITEX’s DTYarns project is researching ways of optimising the processing conditions which will in turn lead to better management of the resources used.  

By developing the project the aim is to undertake a comparative study between the two most commonly-used procedures for yarn texturising: false-twist texturising and TASLAN air texturising. A parallel study will also be performed of “Bulked Continuous Filament” or BCF, using the same methodology.

This will take the form of an in-depth study of the internal structure of the polymer before and after texturising to determine the degree of crystallinity it possesses, and how colour variation is influenced by post processing with the aim of minimising the effect. Seven specific objectives have been identified to ensure the successful outcome of the project:

1. Research into the internal behaviour of the polymer in relation to the processing parameters
2. Optimise the false-twist texturising parameters
3. Optimise the TASLAN texturisation parameters
4. Compare the false-twist and TASLAN texturising processes
5. Eliminate water consumption from the dyeing process. Optimise the bulk-dyeing process
6. Reduce energy consumption
7. Optimise the BCF (Bulked Continuous Filament) processing parameters

The project is funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball of the Generalitat Valenciana through IVACE, and is co-funded with the EU’s ERDF within the ERDF Operational Programme of the Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020. FILE: IMDEEA/2017/67

13 February, 2018 0 comment
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