Author

Neus Jorda

TEXTURISING, A KEY FACTOR IN SYNTHETIC FIBRE MANUFACTURE

R+D PROJECT

Colour variations during fibre processing is a worrying problem. AITEX’s DTYarns project is researching ways of optimising the processing conditions which will in turn lead to better management of the resources used.  

By developing the project the aim is to undertake a comparative study between the two most commonly-used procedures for yarn texturising: false-twist texturising and TASLAN air texturising. A parallel study will also be performed of “Bulked Continuous Filament” or BCF, using the same methodology.

This will take the form of an in-depth study of the internal structure of the polymer before and after texturising to determine the degree of crystallinity it possesses, and how colour variation is influenced by post processing with the aim of minimising the effect. Seven specific objectives have been identified to ensure the successful outcome of the project:

1. Research into the internal behaviour of the polymer in relation to the processing parameters
2. Optimise the false-twist texturising parameters
3. Optimise the TASLAN texturisation parameters
4. Compare the false-twist and TASLAN texturising processes
5. Eliminate water consumption from the dyeing process. Optimise the bulk-dyeing process
6. Reduce energy consumption
7. Optimise the BCF (Bulked Continuous Filament) processing parameters

The project is funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball of the Generalitat Valenciana through IVACE, and is co-funded with the EU’s ERDF within the ERDF Operational Programme of the Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020. FILE: IMDEEA/2017/67

13 February, 2018 0 comment
0 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
WORTH WEEKEND MADRID

The final evaluation of the 41 finalist projects for the first round of the European WORTH Partnership Project were completed during the “WORTH Weekend” event held at the headquarters of the European Design Institute IED Master in Madrid last 3rd and 4th of February.  

During its first call, the program received 111 innovative proposals involving more than 230 participants from 24 European countries. In its first evaluation phase, 41 finalist projects were selected and invited to the WORTH Weekend to present and defend their proposals before the expert panel and mentors. The event was attended by almost a hundred participants, representatives of the European Commission as well as the consortium responsible for the implementation of the project, led by AITEX.  

The first day of the event saw the finalists present their idea in a pitch presentation format, which consisted of presenting the background and expertise of the members of the partnership in 2 minutes, as well as showing a video to explain the idea of the project. The projects presented were from the sectors of industry described in the program, mostly in the textile-fashion sectors.  

In the afternoon, the panellists were the protagonists through a discussion (round table) in which topics of interest for the fashion sector were discussed. The topics for discussion included its impact on communities, culture, sustainable trends and the challenges facing the creative industry, in addition to sharing their own experiences over many years that have helped them become leading players in their areas of expertise.

The second day of the WORTH Weekend consisted of bilateral meetings of 30 minutes between each partnership and experts of the jury and mentors to understand more deeply the scope of the proposed idea and its plan of execution. The finalists received feedback and guidance from the experts on how the project should be focused for a successful outcome.  

Parallel conferences were also held on relevant topics for the participants: “Sustainability in the textile sector” (by Simona Moldovan of AITEX), “Intellectual Property Rights” (by Annamaria Stein of legal firm AA Franzosi, Italia), “Design Thinking” (by Christina Skoubridou of the KEPA Cultural Design Centre of Grecia) and “Fashion as an Interface in the Digital Dimension” by the well-known designer FashTech Jasna Rokegem from Belgium.

The WORTH Weekend proved to be an enriching experience for each of the finalists. The participants had the opportunity to establish connections, exchange knowledge and learn from professionals from all over Europe, including designers, manufacturers and technology developers. They also had the opportunity to receive advice from the jury experts and mentors.

The project evaluation process took into account criteria such as: relevance of the project, innovation, quality and potential of the participants, credentials and portfolio and positioning in the market among other aspects, to generate significant impact on the industry through design positioning. 

7 February, 2018 0 comment
0 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
DESIGNING A SMART WEARABLE SYSTEM FOR THE REAL-TIME DETECTION OF WHETHER AN ELEDERLY WEARER HAS SUFFERED A FALL

R+D PROJECT

  • IBV and AITEX have been involved in a joint research project for the last two years called INSTINTO, financed by IVACE and FEDER

  • The prototype developed by the two centres was trialled during 2017.

  • Innovative solutions to overcoming the problem of falls and how they impact on

The Institute of Biomechanics (IBV) and the Textile Technology Institute (AITEX) have collaborated for the last two years on the INSTINTO research project to develop a system using wearable sensors in clothing, linked to an ICT platform to monitor the elderly wearer and prevent falls from occurring or protect the wearer in the case of a fall.

Integrating wearable sensors into clothing allows the wearer to be monitored constantly, providing data on a range of functional parameters: step, balance, muscle strength, etc., and carry out real-time evaluation of the wearer’s physical wellbeing.

The system comprises a series of wearable electronic devices which collect biometric data, the communication software between the system and the web platform and page to allow both the wearer and clinical staff to access the data in real time.

The data provided by the sensors are accessible to clinical staff via the web page. The system will also be able to identify if the wearer is at risk of suffering a fall, which is vitally important for the clinical staff as it will enable the design and planning of a preventative response.

The results of the trials have demonstrated the validity of INSTINTO in the prediction of falls and the prototype achieved a predictive performance of between 70 and 75%.

Furthermore, the wearable sensor is capable of an extremely high degree of accuracy in real-time fall detection.
The system developed by INSTINTO integrates wearable sensors into textile articles such as t-shirts, trousers and belts capable of recording biometric data of the elderly wearer and detect if they are in an at-risk situation of suffering a fall.

Preventing falls

 

When an elderly person has a fall the long-term effect is often a loss of Independence which in turn reduces their quality of life and social integration. This contributes considerably to higher mortality rates. One in three elderly people suffer a fall at least once a year, and this increases for the over-80’s and is one of the main factors affecting the elderly and the second most prevalent cause of accidental death around the world.

Falls affect approximately 16.5% of the elderly population in Spain, and the psychological and social consequences of receiving assistance and feeling afraid and insecure affect between 44% and 64 %; in addition, between 9.7% and 19% of falls end up with a stay in hospital.

The Biomechanics Institute (IBV) is a leader in developing innovative technological solutions aimed at the sociological and healthcare management of frailty in Europe using biomechanical monitoring applications to evaluate the need for primary and specialised assistance.

INSTINTO is an excellent example of this work, and one which seeks to develop new technological solutions to minimise the consequences of an elderly person taking a fall.

The project aims to place the Autonomous Region of Valencia firmly at the forefront of products and services to improve frailty risk management to help prevent falls among the elderly.

The project has been funded by IVACE within the framework of grants for technological centres in the Comunitat Valenciana to develop non-profit R+D projects jointly with the private sector in 2017, co-financed by ERDF funds (50%) via the ERDF Operational Programme of the Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020.
Reference: IMDEEA/2017/75

31 January, 2018 0 comment
0 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
Textile analysis and safety tests

LABORATORIES & INNOVATION

Consumers are placing more and more value on the quality of their clothing purchases when deciding whether to buy one product or another. In addition, manufacturers and large purchasers need to know first-hand the quality of the goods they are producing and buying to reduce risks and guarantee the quality of textile articles.  

AITEX offers a global, integrated service to guarantee that tested articles are free of harmful substances and comply with REACH. The Institute also provides a range of physical and mechanical tests designed to prevent customer complaints and returns and improve customer satisfaction with a given product.
AITEX provides high street chains with the following suite of fast-fashion services:

  • International offices to provide a fast turnaround for articles being presented for testing. Samples can be delivered to AITEX SPAIN’s laboratories within 48 hours.
  • Quick turnaround: depending on the methods and work requested by the client, results can be available within 3 to 5 working days.
  • Customised reports for each individual client.
  • The most up-to-date computerised applications:
    • AITEX’s EXTRANET: where all the tests performed on a sample can be accessed and searched by field: model, reference, supplier, etc.
    • A tool to manage the results of the tests performed depending on the indicators defined by the client.
  • Technical assessment to resolve incidences
  • Latest-generation testing equipment
  • Fully-qualified professional technicians

HARMFUL SUBSTANCE CONTROL (REACH Requirements):

Existing legislation establishes various requirements for textile article composition and type. At AITEX we assess products and advise manufacturers on how to identify the risk factors associated with their products to perform the necessary tests to ensure that the article is free from harmful substances and complies with the laws pertinent to the countries where it will be sold.

ANALYSIS OF THE PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL PARAMETERS OF GARMENTS AND FABRICS

Each company has its own needs and specifications to meet, depending on the quality of its garments and fabrics. AITEX advises the client on how to design the physical and mechanical test packs it needs to perform in order to reduce the possibility of customer complaints and returns. These include: how well a garment performs to washing, colour fastness, pilling and abrasion, among others.

CHILD SAFETY LEGISLATION:

Of all the stages of the process involved in getting a product to the market, design is one of the earliest and most decisive in several aspects, and this includes its safety during use.
There is a wide range of legislation designed to ensure the safety of children’s and baby wear:

  • UNE-EN 14682: SAFETY OF CHILDREN’S CLOTHING. CORDS AND DRAWSTRINGS ON CHILDREN’S CLOTHING
  • UNE 40902: SAFETY OF BABY GARMENTS. PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES.
  • UNE-EN 14878:2007: BURNING BEHAVIOUR OF CHILDREN’S NIGHTWEAR
24 January, 2018 0 comment
0 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
Reducing costs and maximising profits

NEWS

The aim of the seminars is to make know-how available to the industry so manufacturers can understand the key factors involved in reducing an organisation’s costs, while maximising its profits.

The afternoon’s first presentation was by Eduard Calvo, who spoke on the topic of “The DNA of Industrial Champions”. The talk looked at the characteristics of companies who are successful on an industrial level by applying innovation and impeccable management strategies. Eduard gave a series of examples of how large companies must decide which areas of their business need managing efficiently or with efficacy.

Ramón Nomdedeu presented the “Keys to 100% reliable pricing“. Pricing is one of the IT tools which business managers have at their fingertips to optimise profits for every single product the company sells. Nomdedeu explained how pricing became less important as our industry’s market sold with wide profit margins, but how it has bounced back as a crucial tool in the modern market where globalisation has forced companies to become fiercely competitive.

Fernando Hermenegildo closed the day’s presentations with his presentation on “Improvements in Productivity through Lean Management” which underlined that the key is to allow people to improve processes continuously. Lean management is an industrial tool which must be supported by good people management to ensure continuous, day-to-day improvement.
The last two presentations offered a diagnostic service that will be available to AITEX member companies.

For more information on prices and availability, contact Quico Sempere, Head of AITEX’s Institutional Department. (qsempere@aitex.es)

24 January, 2018 0 comment
0 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
AITEX creates a cosmetics technical unit

The Institute boasts advanced infrastructure, laboratory equipment and experimental research plant with applications in the cosmetics sector.

The cluster of cosmetics and hygiene companies in and around Alcoy generates around 75 million euros turnover per year and directly employs nearly 450 people.

The Regional Councillor for Sustainable Economy, Rafael Climent, the Director General of IVACE, Júlia Company, and the Director of AITEX, Vicente Blanes this morning presented in Alcoy the new AITEX Cosmetics Unit “A historic commitment to a dynamic emerging sector crying out for research support”, said Climent.

The unit allows AITEX to offer a complete range of services to the cosmetics and hygiene sector in three key areas: characterisation laboratories, QA and product certification in compliance with international standards; applied research, innovation and development of added-value products and specialised technical training. Of particular note is the Institute’s participation in the Masters in the Cosmetics Industry which the PUV has run for the last few years.

The mission objective of the new unit is to create technological know-how and transfer it to companies within the sector, providing them with consultancy services on the development of new formulations and relevant legislation at home and abroad, in the characterisation of cosmetics products and environmental impact studies, in addition to helping manufacturers become more competitive, create greater levels of internal value and to provide access to new business opportunities.

 The potential to enhance the attraction of the sector

AITEX, with over 30 years’ experience in applied chemistry in textile, health and hygiene has been able to take all of its know-how and potential and steer it towards the needs of the world of cosmetics. The Institute has sophisticated cutting-edge equipment, laboratories and experimental research plant available to the sector.

With the launch of this new facility, AITEX consolidates and expands the value of the capabilities and resources it can make available to the cosmetics sector, allowing companies to increase competitiveness and create new business opportunities.

Cosmetics: a growing sector

 

The Comunitat Valenciana is Spain’s third-largest cosmetics region after Catalonia and Madrid, with 50 companies, according to data supplied by the National Statistics’ Office latest report.

Alcoy has half a dozen companies who manufacture and distribute cosmetics and hygiene products and the small cluster of cosmetics and hygiene companies in and around Alcoy generates around 75 million euros turnover per year and directly employs nearly 450 people.

During the first six months of 2017, exports of cosmetics and perfume from the Comunitat Valenciana reached 279 million euros, 2% of the region’s entire exports.

The constant demand from ever more demanding consumers with more and more specific requirements has promoted the industry to a position of key importance for the creation of wealth, converting it into one of the dynamos for regional industry.

19 January, 2018 0 comment
0 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
Algae-based dyes; a new alternative for sustainable development in the textile industry

R+D PROJECT

In today’s industrial context, the need to reduce environmental impact, use of resources and contamination is becoming ever more pressing. The idea for GREENCOLOR grew from this pretext: the core goal of the project is to substitute synthetic dyes with high-performance algae-based alternatives which meet all the needs of modern industrial applications.

GREENCOLOR aims to provide an alternative to synthetic and plant-based dyes. Algae-based dyes are an ecological and sustainable alternative for applications in textile dyeing and printing processes while avoiding the drawbacks of synthetic dyes and the typically poorer performance obtained using plant-based dyes.

The goal of GREENCOLOR is to substitute synthetic dyes for algae-based alternatives in order to create more sustainable dyeing and printing processes which produce less socio-economic and environmental impact.

In order to achieve the project’s objectives, the applicability of dyes obtained from the following types of algae have been studied:

  • Microalgae
  • Macroalgae
  • Vegetable

The project is funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball of the Generalitat Valenciana through its IVACE programme, and co-funded by the EU’s ERDF within the framework of the ERDF Programme of the Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020.  FILE: IMDEEA/2017/37

 

18 January, 2018 0 comment
3 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
Technological innovations in obtaining new composite materials: 3D printing

R+D PROJECT

The goals of the ESPRINT project are focused on ways of providing the textile industry with added-value factors through the introduction and use of new 3D printing technology including Melt Deposition Technique (MDT) with double extruder, Continuous Fibre Reinforcing (CFR) and Digital Light Processing (DLP) using photosensitive resins.
To fulfil these objectives, work will be completed in a variety of research lines depending on the expected developments:

  • Research and development of new technical monofilaments obtained through the functionalisation of a range of thermoplastic matrices to enhance the mechanical properties of printed components and the processability of the filament during the printing process.
  • Printing materials that have been reinforced with high-performance fibre with enhanced mechanical properties, using the surface functionalisation of continuous and cut filament carbon fibre.
  • The development of new textile products with a high added-value factor which can be processed easily, cheaply and quickly.
    During additive manufacturing, prototypes are constructed layer by layer, using the different constituent materials, to obtain highly-complex 3D structures with optimised dimensions.

The project is funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball of the Generalitat Valenciana through its IVACE programme, and co-funded by the EU’s ERDF within the framework of the ERDF Programme of the Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020.  FILE: IMDEEA/2017/36

18 January, 2018 0 comment
3 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
AITEX Business Seminars

Cost and Productivity

Reducing costs, maximising profits

On the 22nd of January 2018, AITEX will host the Business Seminar on Costs and Productivity “Reducing Costs, Maximising Profits”. The seminar will be addressed by the following speakers:

  • The DNA of Industrial Champions – Eduardo Calvo (Professor at IESE – Department of Production management, Technology and Operations)
  • Keys for 100% Reliable costing structures – Ramón Nomdedeu (RN Consultores)
  •  Improving Productivity Through Lean Manufacturing – Fernando Hermenegildo (Leansis Productividad).

Eduardo Calvo, will present the European initiative: Industrial Excellence Award, which the IESE has led in Spain for the last decade. Every healthy economy needs a strong, competitive and relevant industrial base. Our business world is constantly talking of ‘digital’, ‘collaborative’, ‘mobile’ and ‘asset light’, but it has never depended as much as it does now, on first-class companies manufacturing high-quality low-cost goods on time. So why aren’t excellent industrial companies as much in the spotlight as Google, Amazon, Facebook or Twitter? Unfortunately, on the one hand certain B2B sectors aren’t as glamorous to the public at large, and on the other, industrial directors are used to keeping a low media profile. And yet the world is (luckily) packed with hidden industrial champions (large and small) who innovate, export, earn and re-invest… and begin again.

Ramón Nomdedeu, with more than 30 years’ experience in pricing and costing studies, will explain the keys to totally reliable costing. Ramón is the Director of RN Consultores, specialists in industrial and financial organisation. RN Consultores carry out cost studies, cost price analysis, time and motion studies and incentive implementation.

Fernando Hermenegildo, is a Partner at Leansis, and will explain how Lean Manufacturing can help improve productivity, both in production and logistics. Leansis aims to help its clients fully achieve all their objectives through useful, profitable and constructive collaboration to ensure that their clients’ needs are met and to introduce an added-value factor to their processes.

After the Seminar, the last two speakers will offer the opportunity of running a company diagnosis. This is designed to enable conference goers to understand better the current situation of their company and identify their objectives and needs, with a view to drawing up a route map. The results will be compiled into a report together with a plan of recommendations for an initial implementation phase. The diagnostic phase will be co-funded through AITEX’s co-payment system and the member company’s contribution.

Seminar attendance costs 200 € but is free to members of AITEX and ATEVAL.

INSCRIPTIONS

The goal of the seminars is to make companies aware of transversal topics of interest, and facilitate the implementation of actions which will enhance their competitiveness. To this end, AITEX works in close collaboration with companies and specialist consultants in each area of expertise.

Programme of seminars for 2017/2018 and topics (download)

21 December, 2017 0 comment
1 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
The textile industry and electronics applied to the creation of new functional materials

R+D PROJECT

The SMARTCOMP project provides an opportunity to make advances in the field of composite materials by applying smart textile technology. The incorporation of these textile structures reinforces the composite, while improving its thermal properties.

The project focuses on the development of smart textile structures – in other words, the incorporation of textronic elements – to develop multifunctional heat-stable composites.

In recent years, R+D of textiles for use in composites has been studying the creation of textile structures with enhanced mechanical performance and low manufacturing costs. The field of textiles offers a range of exciting possibilities for fabrics with innovative multifunctional properties to enhance composite materials.

The challenge facing this R+D project is the creation of a range of smart textiles which can be integrated into a multi-layer laminated or resin-injected composite structure. This requires the textile component to be both heat-resistant and compatible with the manufacturing processes involved in the composites industry, including the heat-stable resins it typically employs.

The project is funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball de la Generalitat Valenciana through IVACE, and co-funded by the EU’s ERDF, within the ERDF Operational Programme of the Comunitat Valenciana 2014-2020.  FILE: IMDEEA/2017/7

20 December, 2017 0 comment
3 Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest