Author

Neus Jorda

AITEX participates in the 3rd meeting of the European project VESTLIFE

R&D PROJECT

AITEX participates in the 3rd meeting of the European project VESTLIFE (Ultralight modular bullet proof integral solution for dismounted soldier protection) in Bergamo (Italy), where preliminary results have been presented and the European Defense Agency (EDA) Project Officer, representatives of the Spanish, Portuguese and Finnish Armies as well as the different centers and companies from Spain, Netherlands, Portugal, Italy and Finland participating in this project coordinated by AITEX have participated.

 

This project has received funding from the European Union’s Preparatory Action on Defence Research under grant agreement No PADR FPSS-01-2017- GA 800876”. This publication reflects only the author’s view and the EDA and the EC are not responsible for any use that may be made of the information it contains.

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AITEX will be in attendance at TECHTEXTIL Frankfurt from the 14 to the 17 of May

AITEX will be at the upcoming international technical textile fair, Techtextil Frankfurt, which will take place from the 14th to the 17th May.

The AITEX Technological Institute will be in Hall 3.1 stand B53, showing the innovations and R & D projects that the Institute is currently developing, in addition to introducing the 50 experimental plants where value-added solutions are developed for technical markets, and where we develop and research smart, technical textiles and new high-performance materials.

The Techtextil fair is the largest international exhibition of technical textiles, nonwovens and functional clothing textiles. The fair is the world’s leading platform for researchers, engineers, manufacturers and users of technical textiles with applications in fashion, sports, personal protection, construction, medicine, agriculture and the automotive industry.

The motto of the 2019 edition is ‘Space for innovation’, and visitors will be able to attend exhibitions as well as enjoy an extensive program of conferences by experts on different areas of application in the Techtextil Forum.

Alongside Techtextil, Texprocess will showcase all the latest innovations in machines, services and solutions for the textile industry of the future.

Techtextil and Texprocess bring together 1,800 international companies and 47,000 professional visitors from around the world.

More information:

Techtextil: https://techtextil.messefrankfurt.com

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The 3rd worth project call opens

New opportunities for designers, creative artists, craftspeople, SMEs and technology companies.

After the success of the recently closed second call, new opportunities have opened up in the development of innovative designer products in textile, fashion, footwear, furniture, leather, accessories and jewellery through transnational collaborations.

The third call of the Worth Partnership program is an opportunity for all those who have an innovative idea with an emphasis on design and who are seeking the support they need to see it through to completion.

The second call was a massive achievement for the WORTH community: 183 candidates, 80 shortlisted projects from 27 countries in the European Union and 65 selected.

The Worth Partnership Project is the first hotbed dedicated to design projects, a four-year initiative funded by the EU’s COSME program to promote the development of innovative products in the creative industries through transnational collaboration between designers, traditional and digital crafts and technological and craft manufacturing industries.

Worth Weekend Valencia

The WORTH Weekend Valencia took place in March, bringing together creative artists and experts from across Europe. The setting was the City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia. The 25 winners of the first WORTH call showed off the progress their products had achieved and shared their experiences with visitors of new ways of creating an innovative design based on transnational collaboration.

The weekend was completed by a series of informative lectures on industry topics, such as “The new generation of biomaterials and their bond with technology and design”, “3D printed fashion”, “Intellectual property rights”, “Positioning and branding: Identity. Narrative and brand content “and” How to be a successful creative entrepreneur”, by leading experts in the world of fashion, design, communication and business.

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Workshop: ‘The textile future: digital and global’

On April 9th, AITEX held the “Textile Future: digital and global’ workshop on the reference points in the global market: consumption, international trends and digitalisation. The day was supported jointly by ATEVAL, Home textiles from Spain, Home textiles premium by TEXTILHOGAR, Feria Valencia and the Creativewear Project.

In the first presentation, Francesco Bolli and Serena Ponticelli, from Patro Textile Museum, introduced a cataloguing software – Patro Heritage Hub Experience – for the management of the museum’s content and exhibits, developed within the European CREATIVEWEARproject, in which AITEX also participates. During the session there was a demonstration of the software’s most important tools, and the installation and configuration requirements for the free HERITAGE MANAGER software which digitises textile design files.

The following presentation, by Rosa María Herrero, CEO of InfinityInner, presented the CUBE zone which will feature in the next edition of Home Textiles Premium by TEXTILHOGAR. CUBE is a CONTRACT FURNISHING space which will include presentations by publishers and interior designs by experts in contract furnishing who will decorate a series of inspiring interiors. Leila Bachetarzi from ATEVAL spoke about the profile of foreign buyers who have been invited to Home Textiles Premium by TEXTILHOGAR, to be held in Madrid from 11 to 13 September at the Caja Magical.
The day’s last lecture was ‘Trends for home textiles 19/20’, a study prepared by AITEX and Metrocomunicación, looking at the latest trends, keys and ideas that will influence textiles and home furnishing in 2020.

The Conference was brought to a finish by José Ramón Revert, President of Home Textiles Premium and Vice President of AITEX, who encouraged all present to get passionate about the innovations appearing in the exciting world of textiles.

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NEW OEKO-TEX® REGULATIONS FOR 2019

LABORATORIES & INNOVATION

1st April 2019

For 2019, the objective of the OEKO-TEX® Association is to strengthen consumer protection and sustainability throughout the textile and leather value chain. Existing guidelines for OEKO-TEX® certifications have been modified in early 2019. The new regulations come into force on April 1st 2019, after a three-month transition period.

Below is an overview of the main changes:

OEKO-TEX® cumple con la nueva “Legislación CMR del Anexo XVII de REACH”

Benzene and four amine salts have been included in STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® and the LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX®, which sets their limits. Quinoline, which has been under observation by OEKO-TEX® since 2018, is now also regulated with a limit value.

In the course of the standardisation of requirements the symbol “<” now applies to almost all limit values.

For more than 25 years, OEKO-TEX® strategy has not been to wait for legislation, but rather to be proactive as a pioneer in consumer protection. As a result of the implementation of the updates mentioned above, STANDARD 100 and LEATHER STANDARD already meet the requirements of the new “REACH legislation of Annex XVII CMR” (Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/1513). In contrast, this legislation addressing 33 CMR substances will only apply to products as of November 1, 2020, making OEKO-TEX® a way to stay ahead while covering many other consumer issues.

New limit values for certificates

The incorporation of several substances: the siloxanes D4, D5 and D6, as well as diazene-1,2-dicarboxamide (ADCA). In addition, a requirement for barium and selenium extractable metals has now been established.

The requirements of Appendix 6 for phthalate (softener) parameters, as well as per- and poly-fluorinated compounds have been restricted, which will result in a lower overall impact on the environment, operators and consumers.

Glyphosate under observation

In 2019, two new product groups will be under observation: glyphosate and its salts, as well as the Carcinogenic N-nitrosamines and N-nitrosatable substances.

Glyphosate products are found in herbicides, receiving heavy media attention during 2017 and 2018, and were the subject of controversial debates around the world. At the end of 2017, glyphosate was temporarily approved by the EU for five years, despite the protests of various consumer and environmental groups. The OEKO-TEX® Association is currently analysing glyphosate more closely in textile materials.

A broad catalogue of products for sustainable production

STeP by OEKO-TEX® will be extended to cover leather manufacturers in 2019. In addition, the name will also be updated to reflect this integration: “Sustainable Textile Production” will become “Sustainable textile and leather production”, but the name of the certification will remain the same: STeP by OEKO-TEX.

More information:

https://www.oeko-tex.com

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Research projects in ICT solutions, advanced manufacturing, digitalisation and customisation

R&D PROJECTS

28th March 2019

Optimized-E-MANIQUI

In line with the European Strategic Agenda for Innovation and Research for the Textile and Clothing Industry with Horizon 2025, AITEX defines its research projects according to these strategic approaches. The Strategic Agenda identifies and describes the most important strategic lines of innovation for the textile industry and its corresponding research priorities until 2025. The Agenda has identified 4 Strategic Innovation Lines, which are essential because of their particular impact on the development of the textile and clothing industry:

I. New high-performance and functionalised textile materials.

II. Advanced manufacturing and digitalisation (industry 4.0) of value chains and business models.

III. Circular economy and resource efficiency.

IV. High value-added solutions for growing strategic markets.

With regards to advanced manufacturing and the digitisation of value chains and business models, AITEX has undertaken research in two lines:

  • Research and development of the manufacture of 3D structures using additive manufacturing technology for the creative and health industry sector. 3DTEX

The successful execution of the 3DTEX project is expected to produce the following results:

  • Design and printing of honeycomb structures for use as cores in composites.
  • Development of dental structures with different materials and printing technologies.
  • Characterisation of biocompatibility properties of the resins used.
  • Development of PLA compounds with nanographene and superconducting carbon black for conductive filaments.
  • Development of biodegradable components printed on textile backing.
  • Development of components printed on textile for fashion.
  • Development of printed conductive circuits on textile substrates.

The knowledge generated about 3D printing for new applications with innovative materials and substrates has uses not only in the creative industries and health but also in sports, leisure and the automotive industry, among others, providing the textile and clothing sector of the Valencian Community with innovative products and approaches with numerous applications.

  • Tools and digital environments for advanced manufacturing.  e-MANIQUÍ II

The e-MANIQUÍ II project created a predictive model for the behaviour of textile materials and their relationship in the virtual simulation of ready-made garments.

This predictive model is based on a library of virtual fabrics organised so as to facilitate the use of virtual garment prototyping, achieving a sufficient degree of realism between the physical and virtual results.

The results of the project contribute to the use of tools and digital environments for advanced production in textiles, clothing and fashion 4.0.

These two projects have the support of the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball of the Generalitat Valenciana, through IVACE.

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Presentation of the 2018 AITEX business awards for innovation and sustainability

On March 8, the 2018 AITEX Business Awards for Innovation and Sustainability were presented at the headquarters of AITEX. 22 companies in the Valencian textile sector attended this first call.

The president of AITEX, Rafael Pascual, opened the day and reminded the audience that the objective of the AITEX Business Awards is to recognise the innovative and sustainable work of companies in the sector. In this edition, two awards were given: the AITEX Innovation Award and the AITEX Sustainability Award. There is a first prize of €10,000 and a second prize of €5,000 in each.

In the first edition of the Business Awards, five companies received awards from the jury composed of: Julia Company Sanus, General Director of IVACE; José Vicente Serna Revert, Secretary General of ATEVAL; Carlos Roa Carrión, CDTI textile project evaluator; Rafael Balart Gimeno, Polytechnic University of Valencia – Alcoy Campus, and Pablo Díaz García, Polytechnic University of Valencia – Alcoy Campus.

The evaluation criteria are the value proposal, its quality, the innovation and results, its socio-economic impact and other relevant aspects such as employability, corporate commitment, collaboration, etc. as well as its environmental impact, in the case of the Sustainability Award.

The winners were:

2018 BUSINESS AWARDS FOR SUSTAINABILITY

Francisco Jover, S.A., second prize in the sustainability category. Currently the company is opening new technical markets, and one of its main objectives is to respect the environment to the fullest. The company has always been committed to maximum output with minimum environmental impact. The company currently produces 73.3% of the energy it consumes, both electric and thermal. This investment is always in continuous improvement by implementing new methods, improving equipment and reducing consumption.

Hilaturas Ferre, S.A., first prize in the sustainability category. The company’s core activity is the mechanical recycling of textile waste and other materials. Their project stems from the company’s earliest days since it has always specialised in recycled materials. The Recover Project works in two areas, introducing circularity to textile companies that were unaware of its possibilities, and secondly its innovative marketing plan for the product.

2018 BUSINESS AWARDS FOR INNOVATION

Protect textil 1980, S.L., second prize in the innovation category. At Protect textile, they insist that to be able to distinguish themselves as a textile manufacturer, they must innovate and invest in product development. The project is for a fabric with specific coatings that can shield from radiation emitted by the readers that goods pass through in logistics systems where boxes contain various articles. The product indicates to the reader what the box contains and the number of units.

Tejidos Royo, S.L., second prize in the innovation category. The project Dry Indigo concerns dyeing denim fabric without water in a more sustainable process that consumes less energy and water, to be more competitive in the global market. The method saves between 70-80% of energy, 100% of water consumption, and the process is much faster, dyeing more metres in less time.

MLS textiles 1992, S.L., first prize in the innovation category. The company manufactures hosiery and first-layer sports clothing. The garments are made using a different weaving system and are very lightweight delicate fabrics. The project is the development of a textile product with the same characteristics of its other products: comfort, breathability, antibacterial, easy drying and lightweight but with the ability to support weight. This innovative product meets the needs of its customers and gives the company the corporate image of being at the forefront of the market.

Rafael Pascual closed the awards by thanking all the companies for their participation, and revealed that 2019 edition of the AITEX Business Awards, will be open to companies across Spain.

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Design as a motor for value in the fashion industry

On March 1 the ‘Design as a generator of value in the fashion industry’ conference took place in the Prince Felipe Museum of the City of Arts and Sciences of Valencia, attended by more than 150 international designers, experts and artisans.

Rafael Pascual, President of AITEX, Julia Company, Director General of IVACE and Silvia Draghi, from the European Commission gave the opening speeches.

The keynote speaker was David Parrish, with his presentation ‘How to become a successful entrepreneur in the creative industry’. Parrish inspired attendees by showing how to best use creative business models, competitive advantages, strategic marketing, intellectual property, among others.

Julia Körner spoke on ‘The importance of 3D printing for the fashion industry’. Körner is an award-winning designer who works at the convergence of architecture, fashion and product design, specialising in Additive Manufacturing and Robotics. Her work has been exhibited internationally in museums, institutions and publications of world renown, and she is recognised at the highest level of her discipline.

Natsai A. Chieza is a designer, facilitator of changes and speaker who works at the intersection of the creative and biotechnology industries. She is the founder and director of Faber Futures, a London-based biodesign laboratory that is catalysing the alignment of DNA-scale engineering with the methods and principles of critical design thinking for the circular economy. She spoke of her experience in ‘New generation of biomaterials and their convergence with technology and design’.

She was followed by Koen Snoeckx, who spoke about the growing importance of interdisciplinarity as a source of innovation in the new social paradigm.

The day ended with a round table with experts from the fashion industry where the new paradigms and the evolution of the industry were discussed. Joep Paemen ended with the presentation ‘Design Thinking’, which focused on a human-centred approach to innovation, the value proposition and the design of successful experiences.

The seminar formed part of the project “INDIPRO – RESEARCH IN PHYSICAL AND VIRTUAL DESIGN AND PROTOTYPE APPLIED TO CLOTHING”, funded by the Conselleria d’Economia Sostenible, Sectors Productius, Comerç i Treball through IVACE.

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Presentation of the ”SEAT TEXTILE CHALLENGE’

On February 28, representatives of SEAT-Martorrell, who travelled to Alcoy to present the challenge to the students, presented the ‘SEAT TEXTILE CHALLENGE’ prizes, organized by the AITEX-UPV Chair.

This activity is part of the AITEX-UPV Chair programme of events, whose objective is that students of the Polytechnic University of Valencia, working in multidisciplinary groups, promote innovative ideas on the development of new functionalities, using textile technology in vehicles.

The challenge is open to students of the Polytechnic University of Valencia studying any degree or master, who wish to innovate in the automotive sector.

Awards

A first prize of €2,000 will be awarded to the winning team and a second prize of €1,000 for the runners up. In addition, SEAT will select an applicant with the right profile from among all the participants to become a trainee.
The final will be held at the end of June at the SEAT facilities in Martorell, where the finalists can visit the SEAT plant in Catalonia.

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Re-FREAM Project

R&D PROJECT

Re-Thinking of Fashion in Research and Artist collaborating development for Urban Manufacturing

 


Re-Think Fashion

Especially for fashion, urban manufacturing offers a great opportunity to create an alternative to the criticized production in low-wage countries. This is possible today through new technologies that are currently changing not only the fashion itself, but also the way it is designed and produced.

Re-FREAM will explore, how can digitally-enabled small-scale production/manufacturing systems and networks combined with artistic exploration and creativity in design and process – revive the social, ecological and economic urban space and lead to unexpected products and services in an urban environment.

Re-FREAM invites artists to submit a project proposal to the following research challenges:

  • re-think fashion from analog to connected as future communication
  • re-think fashion from 2D to 3D
  • re-think fashion from linear to sustainable circular systems

Your new concepts will inspire scientists to optimize in a co-creation process urban manufacturing technologies

Are you taking the challenge of re-inventing fashion?
Who?

Re-FREAM is looking for artists and designers to co-create innovate fashion concepts together with researchers with novel production technology by implementing 3D-printing, electronics, in texile and eco-finishing for these innovative fashion pieces.
Artists and Designers from all over the world are welcome to submit their proposals!

When?

Call will be open from 1st March to 30th May, 2019 (3 pm).

More information: www.re-fream.eu

Where?

Re-FREAM offers three Co-Creation spaces where you can co-create your concept  with scientists within a 9-month-period. These hubs will be your co-creation space at least one third of the project duration.

·         Re-think Fashion from linear to sustainable circular systems located in Valencia, Spain.

·         Re-think Fashion from 2D to 3D located in Linz, Austria.

·         Re-think Fashion from analog to connected located in Berlin, Germany.

 Why? Services and benefits

In all 3 Re-Fream co-creation locations you will:

–    have access to a pool of cutting-edge technologies in order to develop an outstanding and innovative concept.

–    benefit from facilitations services such as:

– expert mentoring,

– support in working facilities and spreading the word about your project,

– project coaching & guidance, and

– connections & networks to relevant players within all project locations.

–    be funded with up to max. 55.000 EUR.  20 artists will be funded in 2 Calls to co-create innovative art-concepts with scientists.

 

About the project

Re-FREAM project is financed by the European Commission (H2020-ICT-2018-2020) which aims to support art-driven innovation in European R&I projects by inclusion of artists in research consortia via linked third-parties with strong support from art-related partners, European Institute of Design, creative hubs and facilitators combined with remarkable technology. Research will be initiated by an European wide open call for artists answering specific challenges in “Additive Manufacturing” “Electronic and Textiles” and “Sustainable Finishing of Fashion” and will be explored in 3 identical research hubs providing access to high end technology, material, know how and facilities and interconnected through common research activities.

The project is coordinated by CREARE and the consortium is composed by art-related partners, creative hubs and facilitators combined with remarkable technological centers as AITEX.

More information:

www.re-fream.eu

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